9/24/2019 Master Lock Codes By Serial
Finding the 'First Locked Position'. Set the dial to 0. Apply full pressure upward on the shackle as if trying to open it. Rotate dial to the left (towards 10) hard until the dial gets locked.
If there is no serial number, or the lock is attached onto something this will not work, so you will need to take additional steps. If the Lock is Being Used If the lock is attached to something at the time you forgot the master lock combination you have two options. You can break the lock, or figure out the combination. How to Crack the Code.
Notice how the dial is locked into a small groove. If you're directly between two digits such as 3 and 4, release the shackle and turn the dial left further until you're into the next locked groove. However, if the dial is between two half digits (e.g., 2.5 and 3.5), then enter the digit in-between (e.g., 3) into First Locked Position in the calculator below. Finding the 'Second Locked Position'. Do all of the above again until you find the second digit below 11 that is between two half digits (e.g., 5.5 and 6.5), and enter the whole number (e.g., 7) into Second Locked Position in the calculator below. Finding the 'Resistant Location'. Apply half as much pressure to the shackle so that you can turn the dial.
Rotate dial to the right until you feel resistance. Rotate the dial to the right several more times to ensure you're feeling resistance at the same exact location. Enter this number into Resistant Location. If the resistance begins at a half number, such as 14.5, enter 14.5.
Inputting the Numbers into My Calculator. Make sure all three numbers are entered into the calculator at the top of this page, then click Find Combos. We now have 20 possible combos, but we'll reduce this further.
Keep reading! Finding the Right 'Third Digit'. Set the dial to the first possibility for the Third Digit. Apply full pressure upward on the shackle as if trying to open it. Turn the dial and note how much give there is. Loosen the shackle and set the dial to the second possibility for the Third Digit. Apply full pressure upward on the shackle as if trying to open it.
If there is more give on the second digit, click the second digit in the calculator above. Otherwise, click the first digit. Testing Out the 8 Combinations on Your Lock. You are left with 8 possible combinations. Test them all until one works with the standard instructions below. Standard Instructions for Opening a Combination Lock. Turn right three times.
Stop at First Digit. Turn left one full turn passing 1st number and stop at Second Digit. Turn right and stop at Third Digit. Pull shackle.
Hi Samy, Same as others here, I have an older lock from maybe 5-6 years ago, serial on bottom reads 1211CF. Same trouble. The dial locks at 2-3, so I skip. The first locked position then is 5.5 and 6.5. Next, it locks between 9 and 9.8. Then the next locked position is 12.2 and 13.1. Next is 15.5 and 16.5.
Kicker here is that I do know the combination on this lock, as it was never used and still has the sticker. Happy to work with you on this. Would like to help amend your code to make it universal if possible. I'd love to know the math too. I had to combine this with the 'in 100 tries or less' method.
The 3rd number was wrong, but easily found manually, the 1st number seems to be generated based on the resistance number, and even though it worked it wasn't the right number (only 1 digit off so maybe human error or glitch in the matrix) but regardless, 1 digit discrepancy still works in most cases. And my 2nd number was also only 1 digit off. But I could generate the right digit using the '100' algorithm. This all makes me REALLY want this formula, because I feel like with a little tweaks you can have a definitive 3rd, 1st, and maybe narrow down the 2nd. It all makes me wanna grab a few more locks from the store to test some theories and equations If you used your formula, and compared your results with a well known matrix for master, one could perfect this Reply.
I only have one number between 0 and 11. I got a 8 and a 11. So I wasn't able to use your formula. Since it is a rotary dial I decide to try between 30 and 0 and I was able to get 35 and 38 with the resistance at 38. I added 10 in modulus 40 to each number and input the number into the calculator. The calculated result was then reconverted to get the correct dial number and on the second trial the lock opened. My lock was 3,33 and 15 Amazing it works!
But you need to change your calculator formula if somebody like me doesn't have two numbers between 0 and 11 (exclusive). Hi Samy, first of all, I got my lock open - so thanks! It did take me a few more than eight tries though so I thought I'd give some feedback in case you're interested or someone else finds it helpful. My resistant location is around 19 which the calculator translates into a first digit of 24. However, my first digit is 25.
In fact, the resistant location is a little over 19, but closer to 19 than 19.5. I estimate it's about 19.15, which does give 25. Instead of rounding up and adding 5, maybe add the offset (5.85 for me) and then round to the nearest number?.
My locking positions are 1, 4.5, 8. I discount the 4.5 because it's a range between two whole numbers (4-5) and enter 1 and 8 and get a last digit of 1 or 21 (or 8 and 28 depending on whether the first digit is right).
But my last digit is 25! The locking range around 25 is a bit more than at 4-5, so that it does cross 25 (24.2-25.4). So it's correct to discount a range between two whole numbers, but this discounts only that particular range, 4-5, but not also 14-15, etc.
I got it by the traditional advice of writing down all 12 midpoints, then discounting the.5s and the whole numbers ending in the same digit. I tried this several times with different master locks and it worked as outlined (I am used to using the 100 try method), but I came across a lock today that it would not work on.
It's a master lock with a red dial and keyhole in the back. The numbers on the dial do not line up the same way they do on a standard master. I could not even do the 100 try method as I could not isolate the third digit. For this method however, I came close, but could not feel the Resistant Location. Thoughts anyone? That's a load of nonsense. How do you conclude that 'if something doesn't work on a how-to' it's probably the fault of the user?
Do you see the dozens of people who have said it isn't working? It's not working for me, either. But I don't suspect Samy is going to reimburse us all for the lost time. It's nice that he's doing this kind of thing - he's a good hacker. I like his little programmed device, too.
But if he hasn't checked with strong confidence, he shouldn't release it. He needs to do more work before publishing unreliable reports, and it's irresponsible to publish something like this without checking on all of the problems and making revisions. He appears to have started trying a year ago, then he gave up. Instead of unpublishing this, he's left it up for thousands to try and fail at. Discovered a lock I haven't seen in years, of course, combo was long gone. I tried the technique, fully believing it was full of crap. The first and last numbers did NOT seem familiar.but I started trying middle numbers from the list, and lo and behold, the 4th number worked and the lock popped open.
I totally felt like I did the whole instructions thing wrong because nothing really felt for sure like it was truly resistant, but anyway.worked for me and I have my pretty purple master lock back without having to buy another! Sammy I am truly amazed by how smart you are. I looked into your other stuff like phreaked out and your other articles. I want to start learning about these things. I'm somewhat tech savy but nothing like your status. I'm not asking to learn how to hack because I know it's not as simple as that.
It's a bit more specific it looks like. Where do I start? How long did it take you to be as wise as you are with all your stuff? I mean, you built your own freakin machine and for that I envy you. Any tips, guides, or words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated! I have 2 locks I found in a storage box that I had lost the combination to.
My first try with this hack worked immediately. The second lock, was a bit more challenging. I thought 0 was one of my locked numbers, but no!
I also missed the.5 on my resistance number. This gave me a 40 as a possible third number. Impossible on this lock. I just kept at it until I had the accurate numbers to input in the calculator. So my advice, if you don't get a solution, is go back to square one and start over. Try adding.5 to your third number. 13.5) Good luck folks!
Typed a whole response, but this pos website gave some stupid Ajax error and poof it was all gone. Can't people code stuff anymore. For those that can't get it to work for their lock, there is a reason.
The author got well out over his skis and assumed all master lock 1500's are the same.news flash they aren't. This won't work for many like those with serial numbers starting with 909, 910 etc.
The resistant number doesn't go in the first position for starters, and you dont add 5. The 3rd number is found by finding the anomaly to the 3 detents from 1 to 11 and adding 10 3 times and looking for the one that's off. The missing number is gained by brute force or finding other smaller resistant numbers.
As for Brute force, don't need to try all 40 numbers, every other number works fine (20x max), as masterlocks aren't precision instruments. As for clarification on finding the anomaly(3rd number), you don't need a calculator.just do this. Go to zero, find the first detent (between 0-11), lets say it's exactly 2-3, add 10, go to 12-13, is it exactly between 12 and 13 like it was for 2-3, if so add 10 again (22-23) same question up to 33-34. Go to the next detent, maybe this is 4 3/4 to 5 3/4, add 10, is it between 14 3/4 and 15 3/4 on and on till you find something like 34 1/4 to 15 3/4, and there is your anomaly. Write it down, as that is your 3rd number of the combo. Beware, many are quite subtle. Another hint, look for other resistance number other than your predominate number as they will be likely candidates for success.
In finding your missing number. Good luck Reply.
It should be in you regular code books or software. Just out of curiosity, why specifically 'master lock combinations'? In twenty two years, I've probably had to look them up less than ten times. They're not that expensive.
People usually just throw them away and by new ones. BTW - 'Locksmithing' is one word. Hope you didn't spell it like that ('Lock Smithing') in your advertising. Bob DeWeese, CML Bear Lock & Security Service, Inc - A full service locksmith company specializing in professional, cost effective solutions to your Commercial, Residential, Safe, and Automotive Security Problems.
Wrote in message news:iaVVa.27707$o54.1810@lakeread05. Glen Cooper 30/7/2003, 21:19 น. I'm not a kid, but am a amateur locksmith/in training and looking to buy all the supplies that I need. I know NO ONE that wants to teach me. And my local community college doesn't offer any classes in the trade. So please don't take offense to a question to locate materials to achieve my goal. I understand that the trade is somewhat a secretive society that doesn't want there valuable information sitting for the average person to view.
Or else they would be out a job. So unless you have anything good to add please do not respond. 'Glen Cooper' wrote in message news:[email protected]. Bob DeWeese, CML 31/7/2003, 8:05 น. Lancaster' wrote in message news:I9Wa.17$5f.5@lakeread05.
I'm not a kid, but am a amateur locksmith/in training Okay, I'll take this one. When you say 'amateur' what exactly do you mean? How long have you been doing it and what do you know, so far? When you say' 'in training', what sort of training have you already had and what was the source of it? and looking to buy all the supplies that I need. What are your current sources?
I know NO ONE that wants to teach me. And my local community college doesn't offer any classes in the trade. Where are you located? Is there a.local. locksmith's association around you? Have you considered a correspondence course?
So please don't take offense to a question to locate materials to achieve my goal. No offense taken. It's just that you showed up here and right off the bat, are looking of help in attaining by-pass information.
Had you read the FAQ, or even lurked for a little while, you'd know that was an invitation for the responses you'll get. If you are, as you say, an 'amateur / in training' one would assume that you'd already have some sort of supplier. If on the other hand, you are just starting, that's neither considered and amateur or in training. Those two descriptions would tend to mean that you already have some knowledge of the profession and have been doing it for at least a little while. And therefore would already have some sort of supply line.
I understand that the trade is somewhat a secretive society that doesn't want there valuable information sitting for the average person to view. And why do you think that is?
Let's say for example you have. A master combination padlock. On the shed where you keep all your lawn equipment. How would you like it if your neighbor's kid showed up here one day looking for the combination to it. Unless we know you better (from posting here for a while) how would we know you're not that kid?
Or else they would be out a job. If you really think that, why would you want to enter this profession? I'll tell you how to install a deadbolt. I'll tell you how to repair the lock on your front door. I'll tell you what's the best access control system for your particular needs.
I'll even tell you how to install it. I'll tell you how to replace a lock on your car. I'll tell you and teach you anything.that doesn't involve by-pass methods. Do you really think telling someone how to pick a lock, or giving them access to codes is going to put me out of a job? For the record.
By-pass is a very small part of what locksmiths do. So unless you have anything good to add please do not respond. In other words. 'If you won't tell me what I want to know, keep your mouth shut'? That's not a very good attitude for someone looking for help. If you want help (especially for free) accept it on the terms dictated by those who are willing to help you.
That all being said, what say we start over? Stick around. Ask some questions not involving circuventional information for a while - till people get to know you and are comfortable answering them (privately). Do that and I guarantee, you'll get a better response.
Bobby 'Keyman' 31/7/2003, 13:58 น. Lancaster' wrote in message news:I9Wa.17$5f.5@lakeread05. I'm not a kid, but am a amateur locksmith/in training and looking to buy all the supplies that I need. I know NO ONE that wants to teach me. And my local community college doesn't offer any classes in the trade.
So please don't take offense to a question to locate materials to achieve my goal. Then you should have made yourself clear the first time!
I understand that the trade is somewhat a secretive society that doesn't want there valuable information sitting for the average person to view. Or else they would be out a job. So unless you have anything good to add please do not respond. If you don't want to see a responce? Simply don't post you're insight.
No real flame intended my2¢ - Keyman 'Keyman' 31/7/2003, 14:11 น. Subject: Master Code Book From: 'Adam B. Lancaster' Date: 7/30/2003 3:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time Message-id: You can get that from virtually any locksmith supply house. However alone and of itself it is not worth the money. You will never look up enough codes to pay for it. Also the locks are easily opened by another method w/o damage and if the customer really wishes the combo it can easily be obtained with the lock open.
The master code info is however part of most code programs. So you will most likely get it that way since a comprehensive code program is virtually a nessesity anyway. Note that it will not include most institutional i.e. Locks no matter how you get it. Putyourspamhere 31/7/2003, 14:28 น. Subject: Re: Master Code Book From: 'Adam B. Lancaster' Date: 7/31/2003 10:29 AM Eastern Daylight Time Message-id: I'm not a kid, but am a amateur locksmith/in training and looking to buy all the supplies that I need.
I know NO ONE that wants to teach me. And my local community college doesn't offer any classes in the trade. So please don't take offense to a question to locate materials to achieve my goal. I understand that the trade is somewhat a secretive society that doesn't want there valuable information sitting for the average person to view. Or else they would be out a job. So unless you have anything good to add please do not respond. If you really must have the serial number lookup information make sure it is part of whatever comprehensive code program or manuals you buy.
That's the only economical way to get it. As I mentioned before keep in mind that it will not include virtually any institutional locks. Only locks sold through normal retail chanels to the general public. Glen Cooper 31/7/2003, 21:17 น. I respect the fact you recognize anyone could stroll in and request the info and have alterior motives to obtaining. But for me this was a chore.
I'm not tech saavy. I call myself TechnoBozo, trying to join this millenium. I fail regularly. My personal reason, I'm tight, cheap, but the other side of the coin is I'm not wasteful either. Which led me to attempt to unlock my son's friend's (16 yrs old) abandoned Combo Master Lock. He believes he remembers 2 of the numbers.
If someone here can help me, I would appreciate it. If not I guess I could go to Walgreens or others who sell this type and request help to call the 800 # to assist me on my behalf. I'm hoping either your help or theirs works, cuz I don't have the patience, equipment, or knowledge to download a form and then wait 4-6 weeks. I have this silly lock just hanging on my little finger as I use my phone to speak my request. I could take a pic and show you its not attached to anything.I really don't use email as a process, but if I have to, I will. Better though, I could give my number I suppose and if anyone would like me to verify, that's okay by me, too. Where there's a will, there's a way.
Sorry, I guess my eccentricityis showing. (219) 577-6763. Kerby) Jay Hennigan 21/4/2014, 20:08 น.
On 4/21/14 2:31 PM, wrote: I respect the fact you recognize anyone could stroll in and request the info and have alterior motives to obtaining. But for me this was a chore. I'm not tech saavy.
I call myself TechnoBozo, trying to join this millenium. I fail regularly. Is there a number stamped or printed on the back of the lock? If so, what's the number? My personal reason, I'm tight, cheap, but the other side of the coin is I'm not wasteful either. Which led me to attempt to unlock my son's friend's (16 yrs old) abandoned Combo Master Lock.
He believes he remembers 2 of the numbers. If someone here can help me, I would appreciate it. If not I guess I could go to Walgreens or others who sell this type and request help to call the 800 # to assist me on my behalf.
I'm hoping either your help or theirs works, cuz I don't have the patience, equipment, or knowledge to download a form and then wait 4-6 weeks. I have this silly lock just hanging on my little finger as I use my phone to speak my request. I could take a pic and show you its not attached to anything.I really don't use email as a process, but if I have to, I will. Better though, I could give my number I suppose and if anyone would like me to verify, that's okay by me, too. Where there's a will, there's a way. Sorry, I guess my eccentricityis showing. (219) 577-6763.
Kerby) What are the two numbers you think you remember? Homepc 7/6/2014, 13:25 น. On 10:08 PM, Jay Hennigan wrote: What are the two numbers you think you remember?
New Post - old request I originally wrote to this group a couple of years ago trying to find the combination to a master lock attached to a pannier bag loop of my bicycle. It's still there and I don't want to cut into my pannier bag to remove it.
Could you supply the combination? Below is my original post. Thank you for your help - Nash homepc I've lost the combination to my bicycle lock, it's been in the basement for a few years and it's attached to a really nice panier loop that I don't want to destroy while trying to remove the lock. It's a plain stainless steel Master # 904416 combination lock. I remember registering it on the Master web site but I lost the pass information to that too.
I tried using all my email addresses for a reset but that didn't work either. I'm lucky to see the lock number, thank god for the camera zoom lens!
Can anyone help with possible hints? Jay Hennigan 8/6/2014, 22:39 น. On 04:25 PM, homepc wrote: I've lost the combination to my bicycle lock, it's been in the basement for a few years and it's attached to a really nice panier loop that I don't want to destroy while trying to remove the lock. It's a plain stainless steel Master # 904416 combination lock. I remember registering it on the Master web site but I lost the pass information to that too.
I tried using all my email addresses for a reset but that didn't work either. I'm lucky to see the lock numberthank god for the camera zoom lens! Can anyone help with possible hints? Oh, for crying out loud. Get a pair of bolt cutters and cut off that $5.00 lock.
Why waste more time and money? (OK, so you may have to buy the bolt cutters but they're a useful addition to the tool box IMO.) Sincerely, - - J. Wood e-mail: [email protected] 7/9/2014, 14:58 น.
Unless you are established in the trade there are some items you are just not going to get. I would dearly love to obtain restricted keyway plugs and blanks, but I accept there is no way I am going to be able to buy these items. Conversely if I relied on such items for my security, I would be pretty mad if someone could get blanks or keys through the back door (eg a young sales assistant in a locksmiths shop who sold forestry gate keys for $100 each - when found out, the locksmith had to re-key all the padlocks at his cost).
Wood 9/9/2014, 3:27 น. On 09:01 PM, peterwn wrote: Unless you are established in the trade there are some items you are just not going to get. I would dearly love to obtain restricted keyway plugs and blanks, but I accept there is no way I am going to be able to buy these items. Conversely if I relied on such items for my security, I would be pretty mad if someone could get blanks or keys through the back door (eg a young sales assistant in a locksmiths shop who sold forestry gate keys for $100 each - when found out, the locksmith had to re-key all the padlocks at his cost). Hello, and there is absolutely nothing in this world that can't be obtained if you're persistent enough, know where to go, willing to pay the price and refuse to take 'no' for an answer (just ask Donald Trump). So if you desire proprietary locksmith trade items this ng is not the place to inquire. And if you do get the stuff FGS keep your mouth shut and your bragging rights to yourself.
(BTW, I never said all this was legal) Sincerely, Stormin Mormon 9/9/2014, 4:43 น. On 9/8/2014 9:01 PM, peterwn wrote: Unless you are established in the trade there are some items you are just not going to get.
I would dearly love to obtain restricted keyway plugs and blanks, but I accept there is no way I am going to be able to buy these items. Conversely if I relied on such items for my security, I would be pretty mad if someone could get blanks or keys through the back door (eg a young sales assistant in a locksmiths shop who sold forestry gate keys for $100 each - when found out, the locksmith had to re-key all the padlocks at his cost). I've also had trouble getting some keys or blanks. It doesn't offend me, the end user can often get them from the factory, and I can cut them and put them into use. I'm encouraged that the companies do protect the customers.
Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus. [email protected] 24/1/2015, 15:17 น.
On Wednesday, July 30, 2003 at 12:39:56 PM UTC-7, Adam B. Lancaster wrote: Hey guys I am new to the Lock Smithing trade and am in need of a Master combination Code Book. Specifically the one that translates a serial number to combination. Any and all help will be appreciated! Brian Some code books are useless and mostly expensive to really get a return on your investment. Whenever I get a Master Combination Padlock, they go into a plastic bin until there is quite a few of them. When I have some spare time after I've restocked my shelves, did my bookkeeping, cleaned up my tools, etc., I'll sit down with my bin of Master Padlocks and 'Shim' them open (uses two of them at a time), then (with a pin-hole light) I look into the open hole where the shackle is out of the way and spin the dial looking for the openings on each disk noting where the dial stops in each direction.
After getting all three numbers, I advance or decrease the numbers until I find the 'Center Numbers' to open the shackle again. Write the combo on sticky paper attaching them to each combo lock. When I come across someone who needs a Master Combo Padlock, I offer them the used ones in exchange for their old ones. It's faster service and they always go for it.
This cycle usually goes on for about three years each time. Invest in the Padlock Shims, it's cheaper and much more cost-effective in your time and inventory. You'll figure it out as you go along. Just view it as FUN to pass some time and continue to enjoy your Locksmith jobs. Wood 18/1/2017, 7:44 น. On Tue, 8 Aug 2017 13:37:59 -0700 (PDT), wrote: Any chance of getting the combination to an old masterlock sphero lock my son used on his locker last year and we cannot locate the combination anywhere. Its not attatched to anything and I could send a picture and send it to someone to prove that.
I have the serial number- 8000164 Any help would be appreciated so I do not have to go buy this kid a new lock. TIA It's doubtful any locksmith, including me, would give you the combination because there is no way to know if you want the combination for the lock on your son's locker or you want to gain access to who knows what. Nothing personal, it's just part of being in the security business. TimR 9/8/2017, 5:24 น. On Tuesday, August 8, 2017 at 4:38:00 PM UTC-4, wrote: Any chance of getting the combination to an old masterlock sphero lock my son used on his locker last year and we cannot locate the combination anywhere. Its not attatched to anything and I could send a picture and send it to someone to prove that. I have the serial number- 8000164 Any help would be appreciated so I do not have to go buy this kid a new lock.
TIA That's not a high security lock. Shim it open then look down the hole and decode it. If you can't figure that out spend $10 on a new one. Take it out of the kid's allowance and teach him some responsibility.
Wood 11/8/2017, 4:13 น. On 04:37 PM, wrote: Any chance of getting the combination to an old masterlock sphero lock my son used on his locker last year and we cannot locate the combination anywhere.
Its not attatched to anything and I could send a picture and send it to someone to prove that. I have the serial number- 8000164 Any help would be appreciated so I do not have to go buy this kid a new lock.
TIA Hello, and assuming this lock hasn't any sentimental value, why bother for an item with an MSRP less than 10 bucks? A locksmith could probably look up the combo for a fee but you'd most likely have to have the padlock in hand. If you're looking to purchase a new Sphero style lock, I believe Masterlock discontinued that line a while back. Sincerely, Derek Broestler 11/8/2017, 17:18 น. On Tuesday, August 8, 2017 at 4:38:00 PM UTC-4, wrote: Any chance of getting the combination to an old masterlock sphero lock my son used on his locker last year and we cannot locate the combination anywhere. Its not attatched to anything and I could send a picture and send it to someone to prove that.
I have the serial number- 8000164 Any help would be appreciated so I do not have to go buy this kid a new lock. TIA I'm sorry to be the barer of bad news, but here it is, honestly. For what it will cost to either have a locksmith provide the combination, or to get the lost combo form notarized, so you can get it directly from Master Lock, you'll save money by just chucking it in the garbage and picking up a new Master Combo Lock from Wally World, they sell for about $3 (and they ALMOST provide $.20 worth of security). Many locksmith's don't even offer that service anymore because it's not worth our time vs.
What a new one costs. If a customer called me asking how much to decode one of these, I'd tell them the same.
The sphero, I believe has been discontinued (or at least scaled back), but it was the same lock just painted and with a different dial, everything inside is the same. By the way, the combo locks you can get at most Dollar Stores for literally $1, is ALSO the same lock. It just doesn't say 'Master Lock' on it. They're probably even made in the same factory in China. If you're heck bent on having a sphero, you can usually find them on Ebay in the $6 range, but again, between the price of the lock and shipping, you're gonna spend several times what it's worth.
I just looked it up on Amazon and they're selling them for $12, which is INSANE for a garbage Master Combo lock. Wood 24/8/2017, 4:32 น. On 08:18 PM, Derek Broestler wrote: The sphero, I believe has been discontinued (or at least scaled back), but it was the same lock just painted and with a different dial, everything inside is the same. By the way, the combo locks you can get at most Dollar Stores for literally $1, is ALSO the same lock.
It just doesn't say 'Master Lock' on it. They're probably even made in the same factory in China. Hello, and FWIW, I think the Sphero line did come from China but the flagship 1500 series is/was being assembled in Mexico. Some of us have been around long enough to remember when all Master locks were manufactured in Milwaukee;-) It's amazing that Master is still around, given the demise (not necessarily the brand) of padlock producers in the U.S. Such as American/Junkunc, Corbin, Eagle, National, Dudley, Slaymaker, Yale and Fraim. Yeah, there were quite a few. Those companies produced good (for the money) stuff as well but I guess Master was best at marketing (especially to schools).
Sincerely, Derek Broestler 24/8/2017, 21:57 น. Agreed on the decline of American MADE padlocks, and locks in general. Whether it comes from Mexico or China, the quality (or lack there of) of Masterlock is pretty much the same as the knockoffs you can get for literally a buck. Just about the ONLY Master Lock I can even recommend is the 6700 series, a keyed padlock that will use any appropriate cylinder. Though I doubt anyone wants to spend $70 on a padlock for a school locker. For customers asking about padlocks in the 'under $15 dollar range' I suggest the American 1100 series. It as an aluminium body, so not as strong as a steel bodied on, but for most applications, like this one, it'll do.
I mean it's a school locker, not Fort Knox. The 5200G series, I beleive, is pretty much the same as, except with a steel body, they come in typically at just over $15 on Amazon. As for WHY the MasterLock 1500 became so popular with schools and other 'locker applications', I actually know the reason. It's because it IS a cheap, low security lock. Just about every school janitor knows how to shim them open, with nothing more than a Coke can and a pair of snips.
And they have for a long time. Saves the schools money on locksmiths, or risking damaging the locker by cutting them off when a student forgets the combo, or school employees need to get in. Even many of the students have known for a while, judging from what I knew in the mid 90's when I was in high school, LONG before I became a locksmith, and before the internet. Back in MY day, theft was obviously a big concern, but also this was during the start of the school lockdowns and drug sweeps, and I quickly realized that if people could bypass the Master combo to play pranks, they could ALSO do it to ditch their stash. So I bought an American 10 Series, the precursor to the 1100. Still have it today and it still works great, I still actually use it on the 'nice inventory' / 'Flammables' locker in my home shop' Can't be bypassed quickly like the 1100s (even then you need a Peterson bypass, or similar for the 1100s, and back covers for the 1100 are cheap) and is a PITA to pick or bump.
Only drawbacks were it can't be rekeyed, and of course, customers do need to carry a key. (I don't understand why that's so hard for kids today. I was a 'latchkey kid' at 7. Never lost my keys (before cell phones to.
So, lose your key, you were on the stoop and S. out of luck until Mom came home). I remember when I first started and hearing the older guys in the shop talk about how locks were much better made 'back in the day' and I have to agree now that I've got enough time it to come across those older locks. While the old American made Master Combo had the same bypass flaws, the old one's WERE made much better. Of course, due to the price point not changing much in decades, they were more expensive back then comparatively speaking, I'd guess about that about $15-$20 price point I suggest when a customer wants an 'good, affordable padlock'. I mean, at the end of the day, with locks, you usually DO get what you pay for.
Derek Broestler 24/8/2017, 22:17 น. On Thursday, August 24, 2017 at 7:32:20 AM UTC-4, J.B. Wood wrote: And YEAH.
Come across some of those OLD Yale padlocks over the years. No joke at ALL. Especially the GI ones that I still find every once in a while. They're solid, shim resistant because of the tolerances, and I HATE picking the Y-1 and similar keyways with a passion. Pins are rounded, so impressioning is an equal PITA. Thank you bump keys!!! Most of the time, that is.
Usually they're JUST worn enough that bumping works fairly quickly for me. If they're in good condition and barely used, like one I had to do for the local AF museum. 'Yeah, this AIN'T like the movies, we're prolly gonna be here a while'. (took me almost and hour, as all I had in the time that would even fit and reach was a Pro-Lock half diamond, and a hook I made myself from a Harbor Freight Scraper blade.) Fun, fun. Wood 28/8/2017, 3:49 น.
On 01:17 AM, Derek Broestler wrote: On Thursday, August 24, 2017 at 7:32:20 AM UTC-4, J.B. Wood wrote: On 08:18 PM, Derek Broestler wrote: The sphero, I believe has been discontinued (or at least scaled back), but it was the same lock just painted and with a different dial, everything inside is the same. By the way, the combo locks you can get at most Dollar Stores for literally $1, is ALSO the same lock.
It just doesn't say 'Master Lock' on it. They're probably even made in the same factory in China. Hello, and FWIW, I think the Sphero line did come from China but the flagship 1500 series is/was being assembled in Mexico. Some of us have been around long enough to remember when all Master locks were manufactured in Milwaukee;-) It's amazing that Master is still aroundgiven the demise (not necessarily the brand) of padlock producers in the U.S.
Such as American/Junkunc, Corbin, Eagle, National, DudleySlaymaker, Yale and Fraim. Yeah, there were quite a few. Those companies produced good (for the money) stuff as well but I guess Master was best at marketing (especially to schools). Sincerely- J. Wood e-mail: And YEAH. Come across some of those OLD Yale padlocks over the years. No joke at ALL.
Especially the GI ones that I still find every once in a while. They're solid, shim resistant because of the tolerances, and I HATE picking the Y-1 and similar keyways with a passion.
Thanks for the detailed follow-ups to my OP, Derek. I appreciate this historical insight although perhaps others don't. That coke-can padlock shimming technique AFAIK was unheard of back in my school days. Basically, it's the same as using a credit card on a door lock that uses a spring to hold the bolt/plunger in the locked position. It's cheap to manufacture.
I've got several Yale #515 series combo padlocks that were also used in schools. They don't use a spring-loaded plunger and are therefore shim resistant, but they use a lot more parts internally than other designs.
(You can see the internal differences on the patent drawings) Not a bad Yale design, though, and the shackle is secured on both sides. I remember one of my high school friends managing to craft a key that would open all the school's Master #1525 padlocks.
I never knew whether he had any nefarious intent. The point is that the weak point on these inexpensive padlocks, other than shimability (is this a word?) and rap-resistance, is the hardness of the shackle metal.
Your bolt cutters will really get chewed up trying to cut off an S&G padlock. But putting such a padlock on on gym locker is overkill, IMHO. Sincerely, Derek Broestler 30/8/2017, 18:40 น.
I've not run across any Yale #515's, but I have no doubt it blew the doors of Master Lock back then, even with Master being produced in the US. Of course, being a more complicated mechanism, (and the Yale name, back in a time when many people still saw them as one of THE authorities on locks) it was probably a bit more expensive as well.
Which I'm sure contributed to both it and Yale's (and other solid companies, like Sargent, Corban / Russwin, etc) overall decline in residential markets in favor of companies like Master Lock and Kwikset. The desire for low price and convenience of consumers in the US REALLY hurt overall security in the residential lock market. I'll have to do the patent search sometime soon and check it out. It sounds interesting and I never know when I might run into one, and I hate using any form of destructive entry if it can be avoided.
Especially on a cool old lock. The older Yale padlocks I have run across are mostly WW2 era, I also see some other general issue locks from Corbin, Sargent, American, etc for securing foot lockers, etc. THANKFULLY due to age and wear their tolerances have opened up a bit from when they were originally produced, STILL a pain to get into, even after seven decades of service.
I can't even imagine what a PITA they were to unlock when they were new. Granted, I'm probably not as used to dealing with the Y-1 keyway as locksmiths back then, and have probably learned to rely more on raking and kinetic attacks then they did, and it may just be a mental block, but I know for ME, they're a pain. They really DON'T make them like that anymore. OK, they DO, but most folks don't want to shell out the money for quality for residential, when they do they're more concerned with form over function. I'm sure I'm not the only locksmith who constantly gets the question 'So what's a REALLY good, REALLY cheap, lock?'
(amazingly, this question always comes when you're 'off'). And has to explain, 'There's really no such animal, what you CAN get is a 'PRETTY good, not OVERLY expensive lock'. If you want a solution cheaper than a $60 deadbolt or $25 dollar padlock, go down to the pet store, buy the biggest dog bowl they have, paint the name Hulk on it, put it outside, and hope for the best because I don't sell any product I can't stand behind or wouldn't recommend to a friend.' Lol Sorry I went a bit off topic there. It's been a week and a half already, and it's only Wednesday. Lol Derek Broestler 30/8/2017, 18:56 น. As for the S&G padlock on a locker.
I'd say that's officially overkill. That's not to say I wouldn't do it though if I had one on hand sitting around not securing anything more important. It's like the customers who's insurance companies suggest Medeco. It's not because it's a magic shield that makes you completely secure, but if someone wants in THAT bad, they're gonna REALLY destroy stuff to do it.
I still maintain that a good, not too expensive, but fairly secure lock for a school / work / gym locker (someplace where it's not out in the open) would be the American 1100 series WITH an anti bipass wafer installed. Under $15, plus another $5-$10 from your local lock shop if you bring it in to install the wafer. Shim resistant, bypass resistant, a pain to pick or bump quickly most of the time, fairly good hardened shackle. It's not gonna stop a dedicated prolonged attack or power tools, but then again, neither is the door of the locker. I'd say that's enough to stop the majority of folks who've watched some videos and done some online shopping. [email protected] 21/9/2017, 11:29 น.
First post, please forgive the intrusion to your group, but you seem like a knowledgeable and helpful group of folks (and I've appreciated the Biblical references I've seen in some of the sigs). Anyway, my uncle passed away some time ago and left behind some locksmith tools, supplies and code books.
He learned via a correspondence course, and while I enjoyed some of the courses he shared with me, I don't think I really want to enter the trade. So, if you don't mind, what are the legal requirements for selling these items? Common/ordinary key blanks and cutting machines don't greatly concern me, but things like code books (padlocks, vehicles, etc.) certainly do. Of course they may not have much value, since they are all pretty old (I don't think he updated them after the early 90s, but perhaps manufacturers reuse SNs and combos). I'd respectfully appreciate any wisdom and insights you may be willing to share. Kind regards, Greg Skipfromla 22/9/2017, 8:13 น.
Yeah, first step is call some of the local reputable locksmiths in your area, or you uncle's locksmith friends and check if any of them want to buy them off of you. If they don't (and be prepared for that, since most of us now use subscription services for codes, so we can access almost ALL codes them anywhere without lugging around all the different books) but they MIGHT know someone who would.
After that check your local laws. State's and even counties can vary GREATLY when it comes to 'locksmith tools'. After that, books for old master padlocks wouldn't be too much of a concern for me personally, since they have so many flaws it's easier for just about anyone wanting to to defeat them without codes, anyone with criminal intent isn't going to bother with code books. But you'll still want to be careful with anything involving vehicles or more high security locks. When we evacuated earlier this month, I even made sure to pack up my safe manuals and Medeco etc code books because I knew they'd be safer with me then left unattended for a week or more (thankfully we didn't sustain damage). Granted, the chances of someone coming across them, knowing what they are how to use them, and successfully using them criminally is slim.
But better safe than sorry. [email protected] 23/9/2017, 15:41 น. Skip/Derek: Thanks for your responses. I guess I shouldn't be surprised they are all online nowadays, hopefully more secure than the idiots at Equifax.;) I'm going to keep some of the tools, I rekey and install locks for friends and sometimes have need to pick a lock (also for friends, not strangers, obviously).
For any licensed locksmith in the greater Phoenix metro area who may be interested in a bunch of blanks and a couple of key-cutting machines and/or code books, post in. It's pulling at my heart to just get rid of so much of his stuff, he was a great guy and taught me more than than I could here relate. Thanks again, Greg Derek Broestler 23/9/2017, 18:54 น. Greg, I completely understand the emotions involved. As for ME tools are personal, especially ones used for a career.
I obviously didn't know your uncle, but I know many locksmiths and other tradesmen who feel the same way. I currently don't have kids, and it's not looking like I will, so when my day comes I'll pass along the tools that belonged to my grandfather to my younger brother to keep them in the family, but he most likely won't be interested in my specialized locksmith equipment.
At that point I know MY wishes for them are that he find a young, legitimate locksmith who's completed some initial training or apprenticing in a shop or just starting off on their own, so that I would 'know' that the person who finally gets them fully appreciates the collection I've amassed over my lifetime and is as passionate about the field as I am, as I know back in the day when I was just starting out such finds REALLY meant a lot to me both professionally and personally. Best of luck, Derek [email protected] 23/9/2017, 20:25 น. Greg, I am not in Arizona, I'm in Ohio. However, if you want to sell some of those tools, email me what you have and how much you want for them individually. And, tools are also personal to me as well.
Before Locksmithing I was in Manufacturing and the Tool and Die trades for 26 yrs. So not only do I have all my expensive tools from those trades, I also now have my Locksmith tools!
My lockpicks are my most personal and I would never willingly part with my least expensive tension wrench! Email me: Jeff Kiral Lock Wizard, LLC Skipfromla 23/9/2017, 23:06 น.
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